NtotheT

I have a '97 Trek 730 Multitrack that I use mostly to commute, but since it is also my main bike I use it for just about anything.

I decided to convert it to drop bars (FSA 44 mm bars and a 3T stem) and Shimano STI brifters (3x7) which went well. I have it shifting well and the conversion seems to be mostly a success. However, through this process I am getting more and more frustrated with my cantilever brakes. They are such a pain to get dialed in correctly though and I never feel like I end up with a good result (probably because I'm still learning, but still...).

I am thinking about swapping out the front brakes and either getting a more modern set of cantilever brakes with easier adjustments, or converting the front brakes to v-brakes with a travel agent. I have done some research on line and feel I have a fair understanding of the differences between v- and cantilever brakes and their respective benefits. But, I am just not sure what I should do.

My main goal is to have brakes that will stop me with a bike loaded with stuff for my commute, while also not driving me batty every time I need to change the pads or make an adjustment.

Thoughts? I am considering Shimano Deore v-brakes or one of Shimano's cyclocross cantis (CX50). Thanks!

dsbrantjr

I use Tektro CR-720 cantis with Problem Solvers Wide cable carriers. I keep the straddle wires as low as possible and use Kool Stop Salmon brake pads. I am quite satisfied with their performance and have no difficulties with adjusting them. I set the pad clearance by adjusting the straddle wire length, keeping the position of the cable carriers constant.

nfmisso

I second Tektro CR 720 cantis with Kool Stop Salmon pads; though I use the stock Tektro cable carriers.

HillRider

If you change the canti's to V-brakes you will have to use "mini-Vs" to allow the STI levers to work properly or, as you mentioned, add Travel Agents. I changed out a set of Shimano BR-R550 canti's for Avid SD-7 V-brakes on a Surly Cross Check, also changing to matching brake levers, and the improvement was striking.

Trevtassie

First step would be to ditch those @#$%^ post type cantis. Hunt down some bolt type ones that don't require you to be an octopus to adjust easily. Local Bike Kitchen or collective would be a good place to start.
For setting the post types (or any type really) a loose zip tie around the back of the pad helps get the toe in right. I've often wondered if a small piece of plastic hose slipped over the post between the pad and the canti would be helpful. At least the pad can only move in 2 dimensions then. It'd be be easier to hold pressure on the brake lever to hold the pad in position while you do up the bolts then.

techsensei

Shimano cantilevers are incredibly easy to adjust properly, and yet I haven't run across any instructions online that shows Shimano's recommended set-up procedure, nor have I seen any videos that show the procedure either. I can probably post the instructions, but not until I get back to the co-op on the weekend. Personally, I don't think you need to replace your brakes; once you do it correctly, they are very reliable and just as good as Shimano's higher end and/or current cantilevers.

DorkDisk

Another option: try a bell crank hanger: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brakes/t...ilever-brakes/

They're similar to the old Cannondale Force 40s, which back in the day recieved great praise from MTB Action. They supposedly boost braking power 40%. These add a whole level of additional arcane adjustments though

A side benefit of these is that you don't have to worry about a snapped cable sending you over the bars.

NtotheT

I should probably have included that the brakes on my Trek currently are Shimano Acera cantilever brakes.

DorkDisk

If you are using the Shimano hanger, the first step is to replace it with a traditional hanger to get it down lower

techsensei

Are they the older BR-CT90, or the "newer" CT91? If you have the older CT90's and are having trouble adjusting them, it could be that the plastic spring caps are broken ... that is a very common issue. In that case brake replacement is indeed necessary. The CT91's are fine though.

EDIT, oops, I was thinking Altus, not Acera. Anyway, the Acera brakes are fine ... the adjustment procedure is identical among all of Shimano's cantilevers of that generation (Altus, Acera, Alivio, STX, LX, XT).

NtotheT

They are BR-M290s.

fietsbob

Mini V like : Tektro 926A Mini L-Pull Brake > Components > Brakes > Mountain Rim Brakes | Jenson USA,
because they're short use the shorter cable pull of road brifters.

cable probably clears a 34 tire or maybe a 32 with mudguards..

a bit nicer:https://www.jensonusa.com/TRP-CX84-Mini-LP-Brake-Set

wschruba

You will likely not notice an abundance of difference between those properly setup, and any of the other brakes listed here. Loosen the pads, and back your barrel adjuster (you have one on the bike, right?) out 5-6mm, then adjust the cable anchor until the upright (above the pivot) section of the cantilever is parallel with the brake track. Slide the pads against the rim, one at a time, and tighten them in place, as you want them to strike the rim. Screw the barrel adjuster in until you like the way the brakes feel.

The link-wire system is somewhat limited in adjustment, but it really does just fine when you understand it. Also, I can't say it enough, you will be miserable without a barrel adjuster with pretty much any brake.

NtotheT

No barrel adjuster after the switch from MTB levers to the Shimano STI shifters (which I pulled off a 1996 Raleigh R500, btw; Shimano STI-RSX brifters). I had thought about getting a new cable hanger for the headset with a barrel adjuster integrated into the cable housing stop. Something like this.

NtotheT

So, I opted to go the route of buying the Tektro CR720 recommended by the first couple posters (thanks for that, by the way). I just felt that the $25 I would pay for the brakes on Amazon was worth the frustration of trying to set up the brakes.

I appreciate your comments, TechSensei, regarding the proper adjustment procedure and I am sure you are correct that if I was familiar with the proper techniques I could get adequate braking power out of these brakes, but I opted for the new brakes option because I felt it wasn't going to be worth the time and effort to adjust those older brakes when newer models with an easier set up were out there for a modest amount of money.

Thanks for all your opinions! It was very helpful.

fietsbob

staying with bars that are compatible with MTB levers and having cantilever bosses ,
makes your bike compatible with Magura's Hydraulic Rim Brakes the HS33.

I find them nicer than any Cable Brake , because the fluid is smooth, and distance between the lever master
and the twin slave cylinders squeezing the rim, has No effect on reducing the power.


and because the motion to the rim is a straight line, rather than an arc around a pivot
the pad to rim contact does not change as the pad gets thinner .

New brake pads literally Snap on, and Kool Stop has supplied them with brake pads for over a decade.