theblackbullet

Are there any reasons why I can't or shouldn't use a road chainring at the track assuming it is the correct size for my crank?

It just appears that I will have a much harder time finding a track specific chainring for my bike (130bcd) than a road chainring.

ijunes

i used a 3/32 chainring until i eventually replaced it with a 1/8 chainring. There is a bit more noise but no reason you coudln't use it. a 1/8 chain will fit on a 3/32. a 3/32 chain will not fit on 1/8 so naturally the first thing i replaced was the 1/8 chain

theblackbullet

hmmm...
how can I tell if I have a 3/32 or 1/8 drivetrain?

ijunes

most 'track' bikes come with a 1/8 drivetrain where as street fixies come with 3/32. If it came with brakes installed, its likely a 3/32. if you have a 1/8 chain you can use any combination of chainrings and cogs, though the 3/32s tend to be noisier.

ijunes

origin 8 makes the 10 hole chainrings for 110/130 bcd in 1/8. They are fairly cheap and I've raced a season on them so far with no problems.

https://cgi.ebay.com/44-TOOTH-TRACK-F...item2ea05d0540

theblackbullet

well, it's a bikesdirect bike which could have came with either.
however, I got bored last night and took the 52t off of my road bike and threw it on and it rode fine, so I guess I have a 3/32 chain anyways.

I guess if there are no other reasons why I shouldn't use it, Ill just borrow the one off of my road bike when necessary. lol

awesome! thanks!!

fatallightning

130 bcd rings arent hard to find. sugino messenger, ta specialties, blackspire, stronglight ct2 etc. i suppose a road ring will do in a pinch, but i'd prefer a ring without ramps/pins for shifting, all of which makes throwing a chain easier. it's easier to crumple a road chainring on standing starts as well.

fuji86

Had a question now that this was brought up. Since road bike gears are manufactured with switching gears in mind, I've read that some have special designs to aid in the shifting of gears. A SS/FG doesn't ever shift, so would these specially designed chain rings/rear wheel gears not be appropriate for a track bike ?

Take the Shimano:

Shimano Dura-Ace CS-7900 10-speed Cassette

Lighter, stiffer and with re-engineered tooth profiles, the Shimano Dura-Ace CS-7900 10-speed road bike cassette delivers fast and crisp shifting performance with a lighter aluminum carrier.

• Shimano Dura-Ace CS-7900 10-speed road bike cassette's new aluminum carrier shaves 10g off the previous CS-7800 cassette for increased rigidity and improved power transfer
• Redesigned sprockets and teeth provide robust upshifts and downshifts
• Four largest sprockets are constructed with titanium to further enhance weight savings

Shimano Dura-Ace FC-7900 Crankset

The Shimano Dura-Ace FC-7900 road bike crankset is redesigned to combine rigidity with aerodynamics featuring newly engineered crank technology at remarkable weight savings!

• Lightweight, rigid crankarms with thin-walled, Hollowtech II technology deliver excellent power transfer and acceleration
• HollowGlide hollow outer chainring reduces weight, increases strength and enhances stiffness of the entire crankset by 20% for even more shifting power
• Wider gear range accommodates most cycling situations and offers less chain touch in the small/small combination
• Individually machined chainring teeth improve chain contact for greater shifting performance
• Improved bottom bracket seals reduce contamination and friction
• Bottom bracket not included

TejanoTrackie 

Not a problem. The chain only moves off a sprocket when it is "derailled" by a mechanism, and track bikes don't have derailleurs. A side force is required, either by the cage plate on the front derailleur or the jockey pulley on the rear derailleur. Although I use normal track chainrings and cogs on the track, I do use road chainrings on my fixed gear training bike for street use and it's common practice to convert freehub cassettes to single speed use.