I light tour on a fixed and full load a direct driven cycle.
Ride what makes you happy at the end of the day, not what some schmucks on the internet tell you to or not to. As for fixed, I'd suggest 3-4 cogs total probably. Freewheel I'd say is completely dependent on your riding style. I'd suggest brakes, even if I don't usually. When I tour/bikecamp with a single gear, I try to pack as light as possible - that's the best suggestion you'll get. Seeing the vast differences in
"fully loaded" is purely crazy. I saw two girls going Arizona to Maine this summer with their bikes loaded to the max (easily 60 pounds of gear each). You can travel light. It's even easier if you want to hotel/hostel every night
.