Thread: Hub adjustment
View Single Post
Old 02-05-10, 09:55 AM
  #3  
FBinNY 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,716

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5787 Post(s)
Liked 2,579 Times in 1,430 Posts
As Garage Sale, yes it's true. There's a bit of axle compression when QRs are closed, but that only applies to QR hubs. Nutted hub axles don't undergo changes when tightened into the bike.

There's a more important consideration. If the dropouts are not perfectly parallel, they'll cause the axle to bow slightly when the hub is installed, possibly binding slightly tight bearings.

In any case, it's difficult to get a perfect cone adjustment off the bike because it's hard to get a good feel when checking for play at the axle. It's easier to detect play at the rim when the wheel is installed, and I'm a fan of those hubs (like Campy) that allow final adjustment while the wheel is installed.

I use what I call the Goldilocks rule when setting hub cones. Checking for play at the rim, if I'm sure there's play, it's too loose, if I'm sure there's zero play it's too tight, and if I think there might be play, but I'm not sure if it's spoke deflection or my imagination, that's just right.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline