That is their primary recommendation for installing the cups. They also state this: Note If Loctite 222 is not available tighten the cups to 35Nm

The biggest problem with post #17 is using an inferior method of installation and not pulling the entire system when a click in the bb/crankset area is suspected. Especially since all the components were new, installed by an LBS (who may or ma not know what they were doing). Our standard shop procedure is to install cups with grease and torque to spec. We never ever had a problem with clicking on a brand new install. Poster never mentions that he did anything but torque the cups up to "hand tight". Which is clearly wrong.

What the poster missed doing is disassembling the entire system and retorquing everything up to spec with grease. The cup threads need grease. The bearing cups need grease. Parts that need at least a light coating of grease - bearing cups where the bearings sit, bearing itself, the spindle, the hirth joint and the crank bolt/washer/ threads.

Instead he was left with a wild goose chase hunt on a false premise.

P.S Clearly the LBS had no idea what they were doing. If they did suspect a warranty issue with the crank, the first thing to do would've been to swap it out for another brand new crankset and elminate that variable (including cups) as needed. Bearing replacement and installation can be done at the shop level with or without the correct UT puller/press.

P.P.S After our last discussion on the retainer clip design - I believe you are right. It *is* necessary for the crankset to work properly and the fact that it retains the drive crankarm is incidental, or secondary to proper operation of the crank/bearings.