I gave you the facts. Find a small beam type wrench if you think your click type is off. Then get the feel for the proper torques. Everyone has to learn sometime, but relying completely on a torque wrench makes for a poorly trained mechanic.
One of the drawback to click-type wrench is they must be calibrated and if something goes wrong with one, you often find out when you strip threads or break something because of a malfunctioning wrench.
The real fact is that the torques are not as critical as most manufacturers would have you believe. Those 5Nm maximum torques are more for legal protection than anything. Tightening a stem to 6-7Nm should not cause any damage.
I did a real-world test to prove that it was truly difficult to cause damage to a well made carbon steering tube. I took a cutoff scrap of steering tube, and installed a stem on it that had two large M6 clamp bolts. I did not put a compression plug into the steerer. I used a long-handled hex wrench and gave a ridiculous pull to both bolts. I'm amazed that the threads didn't strip. I don't know how much torque was applied, but it was many times what any sane person would do and it caused no damage at all.
Most cases of carbon breakage are either due to poor quality carbon or to a poor fit of the stem to the bar or steerer. Most stems are precision forged, but get little or no post-forging machining. Ridges along the edges can cause stress concentrations and fractures. I always check stems for smooth burr-free edges before installing and file a small chamfer on any edges that are suspect.