mechBgon

I'd also suggest lubricating the threads of the bolts, and the contact surfaces of the bolts' heads, so that the torque you do apply is not being excessively consumed by friction just to turn the bolt.

One of my co-workers gave a great explaination for why he prefers beam-type or dial-type torque wrenches to clickers (besides having to set and re-zero them): you can see what's going on, by watching the dial or the scale. You're not just waiting in limbo for a click that may or may not come. If you're not happy with your clicker, return it and get one of the alternatives, such as the Park Tool-branded mini-beam model or its equivalent.

I can also remark that a reality check never hurts. At our shop, we discovered that the "official" torque spec for our bikes with quill-style stems was producing marginal results... it was possible to hold the front wheel between one's knees and spin the stem in the fork. With one hand. That's at the torque specified by both Major Bike Company "T" and by Sutherlands.

In the end, I was only satisfied after exceeding the official torque by about 30% and using carbon "grit paste" assembly compound on the quill and wedge. They would've stayed put under normal riding, but a sudden reaction to, say, having the front wheel drop over the edge of the MUP's pavement, might've resulted in a spun stem.