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Old 02-24-10 | 10:23 AM
  #12  
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Max Erikhman
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 24
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From: Riverside, Rhode Island

Bikes: Raleigh Competition, HardLand FS1000, Specialized Allez, Shwinn Prelude, Shwinn StingRay, GT Silver Comp, Torker Unicycle and an ancient Soviet road bike.

Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie
First things first. Your problem here is that you have vertical dropouts, and it is quite difficult to get proper chain tension because you can't adjust the wheel axle position. You can mess around with different chainring/cog combinations, a chain half link, an eccentric axle hub, and eccentric bottom bracket and even filing the dropouts, but this is both complicated and expensive. Personally, I'd just try to find another frame with either track dropouts (rear facing) or horizontal dropouts (forward facing). Maybe you can either sell or trade your current frame with the vertical dropouts.

As to the subject of gear inches, it is a number computed as follows: (number of crank chainring teeth) X 27 / (number of hub cog teeth), and is just a number that is used to determine gearing. A higher number means a higher (harder) gear and a lower number means a lower (easier) gear. I'd recommend a starting gearing of about 70 GI, such as 44 X 17. Remember that a smaller rear cog equates to a higher gear, so if you went from a 15 to a 14 you'd end up with an even higher gear than you have now.
Thanks a lot guys! Hopefully a 16 or 17 will work...but even if i replace the link that i took out, the single speed 16t still requires a tensioner.
I've learned a lot. Thanks to all.
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