Thread: Kilo TT or ??
View Single Post
Old 03-05-10 | 11:11 AM
  #23  
Grivooga
Senior Member
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, FL

Bikes: Norco CCX1, GF HiFi Plus, Dawes SST AL

Originally Posted by elemental
The key to modern sizing is top tube length (unless you are either terrified about standover height or have such strange proportions that it's a big issue). All you need to do is figure out what top tube length you fit, and figure out what size that corresponds to. Modern sizes usually come from the now-archaic tradition of sizing a bike by its seattube, but even this is problematic because they can be measured center to center or center to top, and don't take into account bottom bracket drop.

So all you need to do is figure out your top tube size, look it up here, and find your listed size. These do seem to run a little big- I usually ride a 56ish (ideally around 555mm) top tube, and this would have me in either a 53 or 55. The top tubes are much longer than the listed sizes (seat tubes) in the smaller sizes, but it seems to even out as the sizes get bigger.
This is the correct way. Find the top tube length you need then double check that the standover is ok. Seat tube doesn't really matter so long as you can stand over it.

If you need a short top tube it does get difficult. You can either compromise with a longer tube and short stem or deal with lots of toe overlap.

Personally I HATE toe overlap. My old roadie had a little bit, was very annoying. None of my current frames overlap though so I'm happy. (not something I worry about much cause I'm usually on a 58 or 60cm frame)
Grivooga is offline  
Reply