I was researching this about 5 years ago. I can't remember the details, but I ended up riding from Portland to Astoria on Highway 30. It wasn't bad. I stopped at a motel about halfway - right before the bridge that goes to Longview, WA. I think it was in a little town called Rainier. Then out to Fort Stevens the next day. I remember the 2nd day being pretty tough, but I think it was because I was out of shape. I stayed at Fort Stevens an extra day to rest up and relax. I've since discovered there's a small primitive campground with about 8 sites in the general area where I stayed in the motel. I found it doing a search on CrazyGuy.