Originally Posted by
Yellowbeard
I don't get your meaning. Personally I consider cable and limit adjustments to be independent, but I think my preferred technique is a bit unorthodox anyway.
I didn't mean it as a method, per se, more just a way of exploring how the derailleur works and responds to adjustments. If a "waste of time" is an issue then he'll want the shop to do the work anyway, and if you want to tune the trim positions it helps to know how the whole system works.
Anyway, sounds like you've got it under control, OP.
In some cases they are and in some cases they are not. For instance, it's possible to set up a front derailler with no inner stop screw in place; the derailler is located entirely by the cable tension. You can also limit how far out the derailler will swing by limiting cable tension, though you'd need to use the inner stop screw as you'd have too little cable tension on the low end. If you set up a front derailler by the book, cable tension and stop screws are very much dependent on each other.
My main point was that, in general, the stop screws do not go out of adjustment and should not need to be tinkered with. Yet most people without a good understanding of deraillers will attack them first. Messing up the stop screws then attempting to correct things by playing with cable tension and the stop screws will be a maddening experience. You'll only get it right by sheer luck.