Originally Posted by
CowtownPeddler
Wow, gratz dude... I've been busy and away from the forums.
I bought the same cells, after a manual balance they haven't wavered a bit. I top mine to 3.70v, make sure they are there stable (about 13 sec or so) and then overnight they drop to 3.65. After 14.68Ah ride, the cell voltages are all +-.01 v of 3.27... I figured the voltage "wavering" as related to wattage draw and such, and backing off the throttle seems to work.
Usually they are at about 3.60 after a day of sitting and it seems that as soon as I put a real load (1 block ride) they hit 3.36 and stay there a long time. Day two they hit 3.55 and the the discharge is very slow it seems.
My batteries are down lower in panniers (I'm sure you saw) and I still feel the higher center of gravity, especially trying to balance on tight, uphill corners (pedestrian bridges). It is taking some getting used to. Love your protective case. My choice was to split the entire battery into two pieces and distribute the weight until the "monsters" arrive to be mounted in a trailer. I've been considering Pelican cases with creative labelling instead of the fabric, but so far it's working for the small set.
The Pelican cases are nice, buy you could also fabricate your own hard case using plastic like starboard cheaper, using pannier mounts or something like electricrider.com's steel battery hangers that mount low on a rear rack.
I used a Currie conversion kit on my mountain bike. Using dumbass' design for his TS battery case, I just completed a battery case for my 24V 20AH TS battery build using starboard (and a bit of plywood because I didn't measure multiple times before cutting). I routed channels to mount the battery in the rear rack since lower is better with that kind of weight. The nice thing about starboard is that you can use woodworking tools to cut and route it without worrying about blades or bits being ruined.
