modern car paint is acrylic urethane/water borne not emeral btw.

depends on the state you are in, you might run into water borne paint from the jobber, it will take more than 2 coats to get
a decent coverage on lighter shades. tacky coat is the key to not getting runs, almost a must for water borne paint viscosity.

with the new water borne paint, you are asking for trouble not to use a sealer, i been using it for a long time just for insurance.
I usually never use high build unless i am super lazy, paint job sticks better with metal, PERIOD. I prefer getting the prep done
right, polyester high build do not have the chip resistance and flexible of a thin epoxy primer/sealer. when you see a bumper
with tons of rock chip the painter usually use a high build on it, cheap and fast. I painted my own car with epoxy primer, i drive around
75-80 miles everyday and i have around 2 rock chips for a three years old paint job. you get a crack or chip easy when the primer
doesn't flex. it cost more and takes more prep but it will always pays for itself if you want a high quality finish.

i never cut my CC with reducer, usually a high speed/fast hardener works best for smaller parts.

<--shoots HOK, sherwin, PPG and chroma mainly.


edit: WB paint requires a new WB HVLP guns as well, if you are doing large panel works you even need to set up a heat rack(not need for bike part in this case).