Check out the Journals on Crazy Guy On a Bike. Katie D. has some nice writing, and really incredible photos. Not sure if this covers the area you're interested in, but maybe send her (or one of the other authors)an e-mail in regards to sights/roads etc.

Land mines do not seem to be a concern any longer.

[EDIT-2nd attemp??] Also, if you don't get that much info from here, perhaps check out the Phred touring e-mail list. I seem to recall a few folks with recent travels through the region. I linked to the main search page-it's an e-mail list serve though, not a BBS. Lots of experienced, knowledgeable folks though.