Now you see why I'm saying that these are a maximum torque. If the Thompon 4 screw stem cap can hold the bars just fine at 48 inch-lbs per screw or even less then why would a Control Tech 4 screw cap need 120 to 144 inch-lbs? Simple, it doesn't. But the torque given is the maximum torque that the stem and screws will withstand without breaking something. Hence my suggestion to start evenly tightened in stages and sneak up on a much lower setting and try to twist the parts in the stem.
Try this on your four bolt stem cap. Using a regular allen key and only two fingers tighten the screws in the correct crossing pattern and bring them up to a firm pinch on the allen key using your thumb at the elbow and your forefinger about 2 inches up from the elbow. Tighten so that you feel it in your finger but not so much that it leaves a serious pressure mark. With all four tight try to twist the bar. I'll bet that the bar pretty much feels welded in place. Or if you do manage to twist it try torqueing with the allen key to the same feel level but with your forefinger out to 3 inches from the elbow. At that point the bar WILL feel welded when you try to twist it in the clamp. Now put your torque meter on there and see what the meter says for torque when the bolts just start to move. I'm assuming that you have the needle type guages. If you got click type guages than you'd need to start with a really low setting. If it clicks without turning the screw then up the setting in 5 in-lb increments until the screw just starts to turn without the wrench clicking. Your true torque value is then somewhere between the last two settings where it didn't and then did move.
Bottom line is that I think you'll find that for many cases there is no need to do everything up to the torque levels given. Now I'm not saying that you should only do things up until they barely don't quite move. That would be too much the other way and would not allow for special circumstances. But this is a good excercise to do in a few spots to understand that not all fasteners need to be done to the max possible torque to function. Meanwhile there's other parts where you WANT them done up close to the max. For example crank arm bolts for almost any sort of style should be pretty much right at the limit. There's a lot of pressure in this area and the tension from the bolt must be well above the expected loads in order to retain the parts in place. And you're only going to get this if you torque that puppy down to a nice middle setting given in the maker's specs or from the Park table. Meanwhile the LAST place you want to dial a fastener to the max would be a brake lever clamping bolt. This is one spot where you want just enough torque to avoid the lever slipping around during use but you want it to be loose enough to allow the lever to pivot during a crash so you have a better chance of the lever surviving with nothing more than some scuffs. If you tighten enough to "weld" it in place then something has to give. And that something would typically be the lever.
I hate to say it but knowing where to use less and where to dial it to the proper limit is a subjective thing that comes with some analysis backed up with experience. It's hard to get this from a torque chart. But the wrenches and the chart will certainly aid in keeping you out of trouble until you get the experience to develop your sense of judgement. And trying some simple experiments like the stem clamp thing I just gave you can help you to figure out and better understand where you can temper the torque back a little and where you should not.