Old 07-14-10 | 08:32 PM
  #4  
fietsbob
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
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From: NW,Oregon Coast

Bikes: 8

the fork you linked to is threadless, so you need something from this selection for a headset,
http://www.bikeman.com/1inch_Threadless_Headsets.html ,

then you will want spacers to go in between the top of the headset to the bottom of the stem,
I recommend going conservative on the Irreversible cutting the steerer tube on the fork too short.

actually threadless setups work fine with spacers stacked on top of the stem,
so as you get older riding gets more casual, not bending over so far will feel better,
then you can raise the stem by shifting the upper set of spacers underneath the stem.

No quill thing , not functional with a threadless steerer..
the top cap screw is your headset pre load adjustment
the stem clamping bolts are loosened and the bolt on the top is tightened cxompressing everything on top of the headset.
then when headset feels in adjustment tightening the stem bolts retains that
adjustment ..

a quill that can substitute for a star nut , i like, comes from BBB in the NL,
US distributor: Bike Mine out of OKC
you tighten the quill,inside the steerer It has a 7/8" OD,
but the bolt you tighten is itself internally threaded,
so once the quill is tight, the headset adjustment is as usual for a threadless headset.

there are some keyed shimms tat you can use to elevate the quill a little higher to un shorten the steerer tube a couple inches , But its not as good as not cutting too short in the first place..

I will mention a Sheldon Brown offered setup, a clever hybrid.

you use the top race of a threadless steerer and the spacers you want to stiffen the steerer tube , but hire the Bike shop/frame builder with a fork threading die for 1" steerers . and you just thread enough of the top to get the top screw part of a threaded headset to screw downtight.

The rest is unthreaded and as a result stronger than it would be with threads cut in it.
top headset race is threadless as is a section of steerer tube above it,
only the last 3/4 ~ 1" needs threading..
then quill stems quick height adjustment may be utilized.

but really Full threadless conversion is better, no quill ... threadless stem ..
they are all 9/8" but a shim will be supplied, if you ask for one.
to clamp around the 1" pipe.

Last edited by fietsbob; 07-14-10 at 09:03 PM.
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