Originally Posted by
Eclectus
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i'm not that enamored of thin-film no-glue patches. I like thick rubber glued-on patches, insofar as getting long-ridable repairs. Thin films will get you home though, 99.9% of the time.
I started using no-glues about a year ago and heard some discontent from others. I couldn't figure out what the fuss was. Mine worked very well. Now I see they are not very durable. I've gone back to the rubber and glue method. THAT is durable.
Originally Posted by
ricohman
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Apply glue and let dry for 25min then apply the patch.
This has not been my experience. At >50F and <90% humidity, a thin film of rubber cement will dry enough to apply patch in less than 3 minutes. Usually 1.
+1 on setting the tire label in the same spot every time. Finding the relation of the leak in the tube to the tire/rim really narrows it down.
With the experience level you indicate. I would recommend getting your kit hung on the bike, riding it into the yard/driveway/park VERY nearby and using the kit on the bike to remove wheel, tire, and tube. (Even slap a patch on it if you want) Then re-install. That way, you know you have the necessary gear.
If you break it down into smaller pieces, it may be easier to work it out...
Checklist... go through each one and proof.
1. Can I get the wheel off/on the bike? On some bikes, one can't get the wheel free of the brakes if the tire is inflated. (Like when you've patched it and pumped it up.)
2. Can I get the tire off the wheel?
3. Can I pump up the tube to find a leak?
4. Can I patch a leak?
Answer yes to all and go ride. A lot.