Remember that the right tension is just no tension at all. You don't want any slack but the chain should never go tight at any combination of positions in the front and rear. You shouldn't need to walk the axle back to get that tight. I used to get that by grabbing the chain stay with my hand and then reach forward with one finger and pull the wheel back while at the same time centering the tire and rim between the stays. I'd then crank the skewer lever. I'd test by back pedalling and feeling for any tight spots where the crank could be felt to bind. If I found one I'd hold the pedal at the binding position and release the skewer and retighten using the same method. The slightly slack points you get are just something you have to live with since you do NOT want the chain to actually have tension in it all the way around due to a tight spot. When I switched to solid axles I walked the axle around but found it was too hard to avoid the tight binds. So I would find the tightest spot and then do the same thing with my hand on the chain stay and finger on the wheel. It made things far more automatic for getting the right (lack of) tension but avoiding any excessive slack.