The subject is often discussed and debated. Fit is individual, sizing is general.
Get in the general vicinity, and go from there.

If you already have a bike that fits, take measurements from it, not the tubes on your bike.
Measure from the center of the BB to your pelvic "weld" on the saddle-1
Measure from the center of the BB to your normal hand position (drops or hoods)-2
Measure from the pelvic weld on the saddle to your normal hand position (drops or hoods)-3



Adjust these as close as possible to the bike that fits, and you'll be pretty much in the ballpark.
It takes some trial and error, and a few rides, and some fine-tuning.

Logic says if your other bike fits, and you get these dimensions pretty close to them, it should also fit pretty well.
You'll have to adjust, most likely, for differences in geometry, ride, etc.
You may want a more aggressive position on one bike vs. another, for example.

It generally takes me about 100 miles, minimum, to fit a bike the way I want it. For the first bunch of rides, I carry the allen wrenches I need to make adjustments. This saves a ton of time in the long run.

If you don't already have a bike that fits, see randyjawa's post and go from there.
You'll need to consult some charts, possible a bike shop or an experienced rider/wrench.
You'd need to get a frame in the ballpark for your size, and this is generally within a 2cm range, maybe 4cm. Then you need to fit it to yourself. This takes more trial and error, but that's pretty much the only way. Even fitting on a trainer will be different than your road fit, but it's close.

I've seen some really good "fit analysis" software, but change bikes, and you start over.
Don't be afraid to spend $50 on a fit, though, as it may save you time and money in the long run.
However, be aware that the $50 fit analysis may lead to $200 in new parts.

Just don't compare modern and classic frames and think you can fit one by mentally comparing it to the other.