Originally Posted by
fietsbob
No, forget threading ... More sensible is complete the threadless conversion,
stem clamps around threadless steerers rather than go inside,
and tightening wedges.
and headset adjustment is only with small allen wrenches, no big open end spanners needed ..
headset can stay, if you can sort out the collar at the to of the top race.
LBS can see what you have , the 1 picture is not as good.
Interesting idea... you're proposing that I leave all of the original headset in place except the top nut which is threaded. Then I use a seatclamp or similar to hold the adjustment. This will look like the second photo in Sheldon's handsup page:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/handsup.html
That might be the way to go if it works; I also like that I will be able to adjust the handlebar height without messing with spacers and headset adjustement.
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ
Most likely the ID of the new carbon-fork is smaller than the factory fork
The original quill is stamped 25.4mm, which according to Sheldon's page
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_st-z.html#stem
is the standard ID for 1 1/8" steerers, so I don't think I'd have a problem if I went that route unless there's something I'm missing.