Originally Posted by
mihlbach
Keep in mind that not all frames leave clearance for fenders, so while it is possible to mount fenders without eyelets, that does not mean you will be able to fit the fenders between the tires and the frame/fork. Many frames will work with fenders, but only with the narrowest of tires. Its better to have lots of tire choices. Also, don't assume that just because a bike has fender eyelets there is actually clearance for fenders. I've seen numerous bikes that have fender eyelets on the frame and fork, but barely any clearance for fenders. Before you buy the frame, be sure it will work with fenders and the tire size of your choice.
Fenders also increase the amount of toe overlap, so you should avoid really steep head tube frames. The Kilo WT (
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/.../kilott_wt.htm) is a good example of bad design. Its built with eyelets and plenty of clearance and it seems to be intended as a do-it-all bike, but the unnecessarily steep geometry (which is intended to conform to a fad, not function) is going to result in excessive toe-fender overlap for most people. Toe-fender overlap is dangerous because its possible for the fender to kep swept up by the tire, forcing it through the fork and sending you over the bars. I've seen it happen.
I have the same geometry gripe with the otherwise well spec'd BD bikes. The WT, WT5, and Uno all seem fairly well designed for commuting/utility, but the ridiculously tight geometries makes me think somebody just lifted them from the trendy track models because they couldn't be bothered to come up with more sensible numbers. I can't imagine riding them more than a couple of miles and/or remotely loaded down.
I'm not exactly clear on how toe overlap with fenders is supposed to yield an endo. If you're going fast enough to flip over the bars, how can you turn the bars far enough for it to matter?