Originally Posted by
TejanoTrackie
You can add or delete axle spacers to make the hub spacing correspond to the dropout spacing, which in your case they already do. If you add spacers to make a hub wider, then you can place more spacers on one side than the other to move the cog position either inboard or outboard. However, it looks like your hub already has wider flange spacing, such that it does not have extra spacers, and therefore you cannot do this. So to make a long story short, you cannot make adjustments in chainline with that particular hub, and must rely on chainring position to accomplish this. If your chainring cannot be adjusted properly on any of the crank spider positions, then your only recourse is a different bottom bracket spindle that is either longer or shorter.
Thanks for the info
Originally Posted by
zacked
Even if you could adjust the chainline on the hub, you wouldn't want to. It would require re-dishing the wheel asymmetrically, which would weaken the wheel.
But I don't understand. It says on that page the hub has a 50mm chainline, and you just said your chainring is 50mm from the centre of the frame. What exactly is the problem?
The problem is that the measurements might be out by 1mm or so, because it is pretty hard to measure to the middle of the frame 100% accurately (or at least I find it is). I don't mind having to re-dish the wheel because it doesn't make that much difference to the strength (look how dished a geared wheel or a disc brake wheel is), I have both and they cope fine with the terrain around here (even if it is potholed!).
I guess I will just go for the hub and hope it works out! Will measure the chainline before building the wheel though!!
Thanks again guys
Daven