Old 10-31-10, 04:09 PM
  #12  
lukasz
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: NYC - where bicycles go to die
Posts: 1,313
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ
Personally I prefer to aim for my spokes ending at the bottom of the slot. This is easier to build up with electric nipple-drivers as they get pushed out 1mm below the slot. Then I bring it up to tension and true for the final couple of turns.

Also if you use the two opposing spokes to measure ERD, I recommend you use four spokes in a + configuration. Then take two measurements at 90-degrees to each other. I've found that a lot of rims are not perfectly round and the process of tightening the nipples down will actually ovalize a round rim. I will then take the average of the two measurements.

I've since developed a variation on Brandt's method that measures everything from the rim-edge down. The variable that's most consistent between rims is the ETRTO bead-seat diameter. Find that spot on the rim and measure from there.
I did measure at four positions on the rim, equally apart. There may have been 1/4 mm of discrepancy. I would expect these Paris Roubaix tested rims to withstand the stress of the dental floss I used to tie the spokes together

I'm going to see how the spokes seat in the nipples (I'm using Sapim. Anyone have experience with those?), and decide whether to lace them up or exchange them. If there is a good amount of leeway for too-long spokes, then I'll go for it.
lukasz is offline