Old 09-18-02, 10:11 AM
  #9  
khuon
DEADBEEF
 
khuon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Catching his breath alongside a road near Seattle, WA USA
Posts: 12,234

Bikes: 1999 K2 OzM, 2001 Aegis Aro Svelte

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 4 Posts
I have the older CT2 seatposts on both my MTB and RB. They look cool and they're light but I wouldn't put too much stock in ride difference unless you've got a lot of it showing out of the seat tube. Yes, the CF probably does transmit less road vibes to the saddle but your saddle does a lot to hide that from your butt than anything else. If you're really looking to smooth out the ride of your current bike then start looking at wheels, fork, stem, handlebars and for your bum... the saddle itself. Get one with some flexy rails and a compliant shell (note that I said shell and not foam). I don't think the Easton posts are that much more expensive than a good quality Al post if you hunt around for a good deal. A couple of things to note about them.

- CT2 had the couble-bolt setup on the sides of the head clamp. There's a pair of bolt and nuts (one for each rail). You'll need about 4 hands to adjust the saddle. They held great once set up and allowed for infinite fine tuning but if you like to change things a lot you'll hate the head clamp. I've also stripped the bolts twice on one of my posts and had to replace the bolts. That said, I think the EC70 has a new head clamp design so this may not be an issue.

- Be very careful with overtightening your seatpost clamp or anything that clamps to your seatpost. Be very careful about scratching the post... no more putting a scrawl mark to remember your seatpost height (use a piece of electrical tape). Any of these things may cause structural failure. This is common to all CF posts.
khuon is offline