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Old 01-03-11 | 04:18 PM
  #112  
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rekmeyata
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From: NE Indiana

Bikes: 2020 Masi Giramondo 700c; 2013 Lynskey Peloton; 1992 Giant Rincon; 1989 Dawes needs parts; 1985 Trek 660; 1985 Fuji Club; 1984 Schwinn Voyager; 1984 Miyata 612; 1977 Raleigh Competition GS

Originally Posted by supton
I would think thin stuff would flow back into the pin faster, after being squeezed out. Thicker might be harder to squeeze out, thinner might be faster to flow back in--and neither particularly long-lived.
But with Chain-L your not going to clean a new chain with solvent, your going to leave the original factory lube inside intact. All your doing is applying the lube externally, sure some of the Chain-L lube will penetrate but it's not going to remove the factory lube. I've read from other sources that all this solvent soaking may be more harmful to chains then just using a brush dipped in solvent and scrubbing the outside of the chain or using a chain cleaning machine, because we're removing the factory lube and washing grit into those areas and then we're not able to get after market lube to go on as well as the factory did.

All I know is that I'm no longer soaking my chains in my solvent basin and so far so good for all my chains, and so far so good with the two chains using Chain-L. Again all this needs to be tested over time, but two of my older chains haven't been washed in my solvent basin since I purchased them 3 years ago. All I do is run the chain cleaning machine from Finish Line and that's it for the cleaning, and on those older chains I do this about once every 150 miles then relube with Finish Line Ceramic lube. Whereas the Chain-l is just a wipe with a cloth and ride.
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