I'm going to side with midgie.

The first thing to do is to set your bike upright on it's tires. Then push down as you loosen and retighten each quick release. That will seat your axles in the dropouts. If the wheels are askew in the dropouts, even a little bit, any attempt at brake adjustment is futile.

Still drag? If so, the next thing to do is to read the label that says what kind of brakes they are. Honestly, if they say Pro-Max on them, my advice is to throw them away and try a lower level Shimano brake. They're not too expensive and they will save you a ton of aggrivation.

If you already have a decent brake, like Shimano or Avid, the next step is to line up the brake pads. I just loosen the pads, push the arm against the rim with my finger and retighten the pad. If you haven't done it a lot, it might take a few tries to get it right.

Make sure that the cable tension is right.

Lastly, look at the base of each brake arm where it attaches to the frame. You will find a little screw or allen bolt. Tightening that screw will move that arm away from the rim and, at the same time, moves the other arm closer to the rim. What you are doing is balancing the return spring tension on the two arms. When it's right, the arms will move together towrad the rim when you pull the lever and move together away from the rim when you release it.

As an aside, I once went to the start of a group ride in which a fellow was having a brake drag problem. Another rider had actually gotten a spoke wrench out of his tool kit and was preparing to redish the fellow's wheel. Just in the nick of time I set the bike upright, loosened and retightened the QR which seated the wheel and solved the problem.