Some folks on here will like SRAM, others Shimano.

I think it's a good idea to match the brand of chain with cassette as they were made together. If you go the Shimano route, you may want to get a SRAM, Wippermann, KNC, or similar quick-link rather than messing with the replacement pins.

For the cassette, as you go higher up the scale, you begin mainly paying for lighter weight. Since 8-speed is getting outdated, there isn't much of a higher end anyway. Remember that cassettes and chains are wearable parts so will need replacing eventually, so don't overspend.

Careful that Shimano road rear derailleurs are rated to handle a maximum 27T on the largest cog. Many folks have stretched to 30T just fine (just screw in the b-tension screw). I'm not familiar with old Dura Ace, so it may even have a lower max cog rating as it's a racing group (someone else can chime in here). If it is rated for less than 27T, then a 30T cassette could really be pushing it.

Also, keep in mind that you may be pushing the RD's wrap capacity with such a large number of teeth difference between the 30T and 11T cogs. Wrap capacity (in teeth, T) = [largest cog - smallest cog] + [outer chainring - inner chainring]. If you do exceed the wrap capacity, you should size the chain using Sheldon Brown's "big/big + 1 inch" method. Just know that the RD will not be able to take up the slack when in the inner chainring and largest cogs, so those combos will need to be avoided.