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Old 03-03-11 | 03:47 PM
  #14  
sstorkel
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Joined: Apr 2008
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Bikes: Cervelo RS, Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Pro, Schwinn Typhoon, Nashbar touring, custom steel MTB

Originally Posted by Mr. Beanz
That's really strange that you have a problem with that because it is set up in a mechanical order/sense. On the rear, the top screw is the hig and the bottom screw is the low. Right tightens the limits, left loosens the limits. On the front, even more basic. Inside is for the inside limit (low) and outside for the outside limit (high).
It's really strange that you assume that all derailleurs are the same and that one set of instructions will work for everything... If I only owned one bike, I wouldn't have a problem. Unfortunately, four of the five bikes I own have derailleurs and they're not all the same.

Just looking at front derailleurs, there are a number of factors to take into account: SRAM versus Shimano, high-clamp versus low-clamp, and top-pull versus bottom-pull. IIRC, I've got three bottom-pull derailleurs (two high-clamp, one low-clamp) and one top-pull derailleur. I guarantee that your instructions don't work for all of the derailleurs I own... I just can't remember which ones are which!

The score is much the same with rear derailleurs: Shimano versus SRAM, high-normal versus low-normal, etc. Again, I'm not sure your advice applies to to all the different permutations. All of my rear-derailleurs are low-normal, but I want to say that SRAM and Shimano put the limit screws in different locations due to the differences in the shifting mechanism. Or maybe it's a difference between MTB and road bike? Again, I can't remember which is which.

In addition, for SRAM road components at least, the order of adjustment seems to be important. My experience was that if I followed the instructions exactly, adjustment was super-easy. Fiddle with the limit screws in random order and it was very difficult to get things dialed in precisely. Shimano seemed much more amenable to random twiddling.
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