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Old 03-09-11 | 05:58 PM
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FBinNY
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Forget the levers for the moment and shift the FD by direct pressure on the arm (where the cable attaches, or by drawing the cable away from the down tube like a bowstring.

If that shifts the FD is fine, and use this technique to set the outer limit, so it shifts to the outer ring crisply and reliably, yet doesn't over-shift, making the chain fall off. If the cable is slack enough use a similar method to roughly set the inner limit.

Now leave the FD, on the inner ring and shift the lever to the low gear position slackening the cable, and pull up all the slack and tighten the pinch bolt. A few pointers here, make sure the cable is on the correct side of the screw, usually the far side from the arm's pivot. if the FD cable has an adjuster someplace, (levers, frame fulcrum or in-line, bring it to the innermost position so you have the max slack take-up range. If there's no adjuster, manually bring the FD about half way between the inner and middle sprocket because you can't take up all the slack and this will allow the normal return to take up a bit more.

Now it's a matter of fine tuning the cable for indexing fronts which is far easier with an adjuster, then fine tuning both limits.
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