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Old 03-16-11 | 11:36 AM
  #3  
FBinNY
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

First, stop crapping around and get the right crank off. here's how.

Do this at the co-op where you have access to a repair stand, or a willing volunteers extra hands. If they don't have one bring a pair of vice-grip, a punch and a length of pipe or similar. The keys to hammering out a pin are to properly support the arm to concentrate the energy, and to deliver a bigger blow than it can absorb by deforming. Start off by sawing off the pent part of the pin flush to the arm.

On a repair stand, use a pipe about 3' long and lower the bike so the crank arm is resting on the pipe (other end on the steel base of the stand) with the pin in the hole. Make sure all is braced up solidly. Set the punch against the pin, and strike it with the hammer as if you wanted to blast it down the pipe, through the base and on it's way to China. If you don't trust yourself to deliver a serious blow with your other hand directly in the line of fire, use the vice-grip to hold the punch (don't use regular pliers, you'll sent the punch off flying endangering your neighbors).

If you don't have a repair stand, you can do the same, using a short piece of pipe securely braced in a bench vice, but you'll need someone to hold the bike.

In any case the thing to remember is that you intend to remove the pin in one shot, not with multiple hammer blows.

Once the right crank is out of the way, you'll have multiple options for removing the bottom bracket.

BTW- start on the left side which is 100% sure to have right hand threads.
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