Originally Posted by
I_like_cereal
Running a 12/25 soon a 12/27 with a 53/39. I have a 30 for a bail out. I am trying to not use it.
The cranks turn easy. No way am I Lance Armstronging at 90 rpm more likely 60 - 70 rpm.
I turn comfortably for the hour or so commute. I generally sit for the entire commute I only come out of the saddle for a really hard hill. I'd say that one is 8% or 9% over 500 or 1000 feet. On that one I have to come out of the saddle. I can sit for whole hill, but it is a struggle.
Again thanks. I learned a lot. I think I will put a 25 on the back and a 23 on the front. I think that will give me the contact patch I need on the back and the aero on the front to help with the aero.
I am going to work on lower strength and conditioning. Thanks.
Put 25s or 28s on both wheels. Tyre aero buys a marginal edge at +25mph. At slower speeds it matters less than rolling resistance, which is lower for wider tyres:
http://www.bikeradar.com/news/articl...e-myths-29245/
Also your front tyre is the one that matters most contact patch wise for steering and braking.
In fact, just forget about bike aerodynamics. Go into the drops for pedalling into the wind, yes, but don't fiddle with the bike. Almost all aero improvements come from rider position. After that the biggest aero advantage are disc wheels... which can save a triathlete about ONE MINUTE in a 40km race. (
http://www.beginnertriathlete.com/cm...articleid=1099) A great investment of $1500 on a commuter bike... not!