I run a U-Lock through my frame, steel post (that the bike is going to be locked to), and front wheel. It goes pointing down with the key hole on the side closest to the wheel. Then I turn the key hole cover up just for kicks-and-giggles.

I have a thin seat-post security cable going through the loops in my seat and then through my frame then tangling itself around so that I don't need to lock it to keep the cable from unwinding. I keep one loop free underneath the top tube after it's gone through the other loop. I know this sounds confusing but trial-and-error got me to it.

I then take a thick cable lock (that requires three different bolt cutters to cut according to the LBS) and loop that one through the rear wheel, then once around the frame, then through the free loop of the seat cable lock, then through the front wheel and back to lock it. Takes me 5 more seconds to lock the bike this way (the thick cable lock is already curly so that's nice). Knock on wood it's been three years of leaving it on a college campus for 12hrs at a time and nobody has even tackled the locks. So let's hope it stays that way.

Another theft deterrent I did was buy some 3M Reflective tape in silver and plaster my bike with it so that all trademarks and logos are covered. Everyone I ride with on their $3k bikes thinks its for safety because I commute and in part they're right but it's really so that my bike doesn't give off that "shiny" (pun intended) look. The irony of this is that to cover the big Trek logos I need large, long stretches of this tape which is actually bad for reflectivity. Thin strips separated by about 1/2" are best for being reflective.

Now some guys have said to do it like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7RpH...eature=related

I personally think the more complicated your bike lock setup looks is just another deterrent so I have 5 )

But for quick stops is taking the front wheel off and using a U-Lock through front, back, and frame a good enough way? I think it's kind of a pain getting the cable lock out of my pannier for a quick run to get lunch :/

Quick question: it's not a good idea to have just a U-Lock and a double-looped cable lock right? Because even though you run the loop ends of the cable through the U-lock "tooth" if the thief breaks the U-Lock then the cable lock comes off with it, right? Is having a seperate cable lock with it's own locking mechanism worth the added weight? I never noticed how I have a 4lb Kryptonite 13mm U-Lock and a 2.5lb On-Gaurd cable lock which negates the extra $800 I spent going from hybrid to road bike for the 30lb to 20lb difference.