mrrabbit 

1. After "adequate" or "proper" tensioning the spoke only needs to penetrate the thickness of the rim seat. It can be 1mm below the screwdriver flat of the nipple and the spoke, nipple and wheel as a whole will be fine.

2. "Between slot and top" spec is a carry over from the days of 10/12mm nipples and boxed spokes or 16mm nipples w/long threaded spokes. Today we have 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 16mm and 20mm nipples with unfortunately mostly boxed 9mm-9.5mm threaded spokes. Hence the "short game" played often with 14mm, 16mm and 20mm spokes because 99% of the wheelbuilders out there don't have a spoke machine like some of us do.

3. Toss in crappy nipples intended for "el cheapo" bargain basement wheels into today's alloy wheels and things get worse. This is happening with a lot of basic and replacement machine built wheels distributed through shops.


I agree in the sense that just about any halfway decent wheelbuilder would recognize right away while building a wheel that the spokes are too short and that the wheel should not go out the door. They don't have to wait until the build is done - when pre-tensioning is done they'll know right away because they are fighting to clear the last couple threads into the nipple BEFORE the truing stage. Happened to me last week on a disc front - didn't bother to start truing - just replaced half the spokes and then got on with business. It sucks, but it happens.

If the OP verifies visually that the spoke ends are easily 2mm or more down under decent tension and true state - call the original vendor.

=8-)