mrrabbit 

You pretty much have everything you need:

1. Grab a few of the flathead bits at the checkout counter at OSH or Home Depot. File or RotoZip one until you still have a flat screwdriver bit but with a 1.5mm long point in the middle. Using a 6V-9V slow power screwdriver with this bit will help speed up thread take-up. Gotta go slow in case the spokes are a tad short so you don't "burn" the rim seat at the holes - in that case stop at a few threads showing...lube the nipple seats...take up the rest.

2. Take another one of the bits and do the reverse. Grind away the center a good 3mm so that you can easily remove stripped nipples that also happen to have spoke poke thru that gets in the way of using a screwdriver to remove the nipples. Comes in very handy when removing corroded aluminum nipples from overly long spokes.

3. 3/8" - 1/2" electrical tape. I cut little squares off...

- place one on the side of the preferred truing stand point with only 1mm stick inward.
- place on on the bottom of the preferred truing stand point with only 1mm sticking upward.

These provide a very sharp and fine edge for fine truing - and easily allow .002 in. truing with the naked eye even with poor eyesight or glasses. My dial-indicator gets touched maybe once or twice a year per the 200-400 wheels per year that I build.

4. Grab a spoke ruler and a very small metric right angle - say 6 in. by 6 in. max. Also grab a cheap metric caliper. These work together well to measure exact hub dimensions - especially when restoring hubs to spec with locknuts, spacers, etc. I use 'em frequently when converting 7spd cassette hubs to 8/9 speed cassette hub and vice versa.

5. Grab some cheap dental syringes from your Dentist. Cut off about half of the curved nozzle so that you get a 1/8" bead. Fill with Park Tool grease...handy lightweight grease gun is ready for use.

Overall you are pretty well equipped already...

=8-)