We just returned from 2 weeks in Italy, partly for the Giro, and I must say you are one brave old man. I loved to watch the traffic from our balcony in Rome, and drove out of Rome, and it was really unnerving. It seems to be an experience bordering on mass insanity, there seems to be an agreement that almost anything a driver does is acceptable, lanes have no meaning, tailgateing is expected, passing at any time is the norm, and traffic control devices are mere suggestions. It is worse in Sicily. I would like at some point to do a bit of cycling in Umbria, but next time I think we may to hire a driver to get us there.