Old 06-01-11, 11:36 AM
  #49  
corkscrew
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Boise, ID.
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Originally Posted by chvid
One thing you can do, if you find the handlebars are too far to the rear, and your elbows are conflicting with the seat, is chop the handlebar where it is connected to the one piece handlebar/stem, and put some cheap bmx stems on, so that the handlebar can go through the new stems, enabling fore/aft adjustability, I needed a couple of shims from the LBS to do this. inside the stems. It is nice to move the handlebars to the best fore/aft position, or change their "in/out" position toward or away from the seat, laterally. This is a common mod, explained on the AB group on Yahoo. My handlebar was too far to the rear, as supplied. I'm wondering if you have encountered any low speed shimmy with no hands - I needed to put an o-ring (well lubricated) inside each headset, on top of the bearing, to dampen the steering. I found that running at higher pressures was the best, with Big Apples at 50psi producing considerable shimmy. I'm running 70psi Marathon racers now. The o-rings and the different tires solved the shimmy issue. May not be an issue on your frame though. I found a toe-in of exactly zero was my best setting for handling - even a minor adjustment of one turn of the tie rod from the optimum position is noticeable in the "feel". I use an old "rabbit ears" tv antenna for precise toe measurement. Works great. Those little adjustments add up until the trike just feels perfect.
The handlebars are comfy enough for me - and for extended running the mirror mounts count as an extra hand position.

No shimmy or shake for me either, maybe due to the fact that all my tires are @ 80psi currently? (Will change, assuming the 700x50 big apple fits when it arrives tomorrow).

My economy is getting better - 10 miles yesterday with pedaling almost the entire time netted me 17.5 watt/hrs per mile. This morning was on the roads, average speed near 30mph, with pedaling averaged 22 w/h mile.
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