On a new build you should be much closer than that. The variation is probably indicative of imbalances you introduced during the build, such as still having some hop when the wheel was already fairly tight, which now must be compensated for with excess differences in tension between different areas of the rim. (once tight, the rim can no longer move around the circumference to equalize).
Also look for unmatched tension between crossed pairs, it's easy to end up with one lose and one tight, and this can now be corrected, though it might require some adjustment on the opposite side.
If it's a repaired wheel it's perfectly reasonable, since uneven tension is how you compensate for and correct bends within the rim.
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