Thanks for the feedback guys. Sorry, I should have mentioned it's a used rim. I replaced a broken spoke along with a few other spokes with stripped nipples. The spokes are all double butted, stainless steel, round spokes. The old spokes are Wheelsmith 2.0/1.7 and the few new ones are DT 2.0/1.8 (I assume Competitions). I accounted for the larger diameter in the tension calcs in the OP.
Originally Posted by
deacon mark
Ask Velocity they are great to work with, I built a set a Velocity wheels they gave good advice. I actually think you maybe fine. On my offset rear rim they said get the DS to same as you and the let the NDS fall where it is as long as wheel is true laterally and radially.
Cool. I was a bit worried that the NDS tensions were a little low.
Originally Posted by
ryker
Sweet! I have the TM-1, so I'm going to download their spreadsheet, which gives a graphic representation of the tension in the wheel. I'm a sucker for this kind of thing.
Originally Posted by
gyozadude
Your tensions seem good. I might tighten the drive side a touch, especially on 8/9/10 spd gearing with more acute dish. But you're clearly within a good range. Your variance seems good too.
Hmm, maybe I should ratchet up the tension a little. It's a Powertap with 10sp freehub.
Originally Posted by
gyozadude
Most tensiometers have quite a bit of error, too. And rims in their natural state can have some imperfections out of round. This means you can sum up the variances and find more than 10 - 15% variation. I expect that in the measurement. My key indicators on a build are the run-out in roundness. And second is the lateral true run out. If you have less than 25% measured variation in tension on a new rim and it's round and true to less than 1mm either way, the rest of the slack is going to be picked up by the tires (which have variation in height/width). In addition, if the profile of the rim is aero, or semi-aero, depending on the mfg., small tolerances in round require great variance in tension to pull back into true round.
One of the keys to distributing tension properly is to remove wheel after each round of tensioning and apply lateral load on the rims with both hands working around the rim, then flip wheel over and repeat (aka 'ping' the wheel). Then round/true/repeat. If you find a low spot (too tight), try to always loosen a group of 4 spokes in that group (assuming 3/4 cross lacing), ping the wheel, then repeat check for round/true. But I assume you already have done that to get to this state.
Lastly, after the 3rd or 4th iteration, I'm usually quite happy with a wheel and I install rim strip, tube, tire, and inflate. The real test is to ride the wheel under load for a mile or so. This works and seats everything into what is really close to the final state of the wheel. I then take that wheel out, remove tire/tube and then recheck tension and do a final tension/true. While a wheel never seems to be able to re-distribute tension perfectly in a shop, there's nothing like a ride with a real person to put that wheel to the test and come back with any loose spokes. Must be Murphy's Law or something! LOL! But the great part is that I find that post-first ride re-tensioning to be sort of the magical opportunity to put the wheel into a final stable true that will last a long time (or until accident ruins the wheel).
Yeah, I've got the radial and lateral true to within about 1mm.
When pinging the wheel, I worry that I'm going to taco it, which might be keeping me back from applying enough force to effectively stress relieve it. I did hear two pings, but I'm guessing I should probably have heard more given that I only pinged the wheel after getting it up to just about final tension.
Good point. Instead of worrying about perfecting it pre-ride, I'll get it close enough and go for a spin and do a tune-up.