Try measuring the tension on the same spoke five times in a row without changing the tension. Did you get the same results every time, some of the time, or never?

When I tried the Park Tension Meter, I did not get consistent results. And, I was warned of this by a local and sincere bicycle mechanic Guru. These days, because I cannot afford a decent spoke tension meter ($250.00+ where I live), I go by sound, not feel or measurement. I would prefer measurement but sound is much more accurate than feel, in my opinion.

A spoke under no tension will not ring. A spoke under some tension will ring, and the greater the tension (up to a point), the crisper or higher the note the spoke will produce when struck. It is also important to note that the spokes must all be the same to offer similar notes under equal tensions.

This is how I tension spokes and seek to get them even. I have had no problems, since I started doing wheels this way...

Get rid of the wobble and hop. Now, use a pencil or some other object to lightly strike every spoke on one side of the wheel, and then the other, just to get a feel for where you are at. My guess is that you will be able to find several different notes.

Now, focus on one side of the wheel, striking the spokes and listening for the deader rings or lower notes. Tighten/loosen slightly to match the note produced with the other spokes. This is not a one shot process. Work at it slowly and recheck true frequently. You are trying to get the same musical note from each spoke.

Now, check for feel of the spokes. Do they feel tight enough or a bit loose? If too loose, tighten up every spoke the exact same amount and check all parameters again, ensure hop and wobble free, coupled with matching sounds.

At the end of the day, the wheel should be hop and wobble free (more or less) and the spokes will share the load as evenly as the wheel will allow.