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Old 06-29-05 | 05:54 AM
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RJOsprey
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 51
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From: Pacific Beach, San Diego, California

Bikes: Trek 410 Sport Tour, Phil Wood, Campagnolo Record, Modolo, Shimano parts. Front low pack, NiteRider lights and large wedgie seatbag - aerodynamic & balanced. Gary Fischer Hoo Koo E Koo MTB, 2 racks. All - Crows' foot spoke pattern! BobYak trail

For fast commuting I recommend a sport touring bike, which is basically a racing bike with eyelets for easily mounting racks. Aerodynamics favor a front “low rider”, mid axle, rack and packs (preferably a small streamlined pair). The Sport Tourer also has a mountain bike style triple ring crank. Add a large rear wedge seat post/behind the seat pack to balance the weight of the front packs. This combo is known to produce a bike more aerodynamic then a standard racing bike, see “Bicycling Science.” Fenders should be used if your area is often wet, otherwise avoided. The wheels should be stronger then a typical race bike; my pick would be a 32 hole front and rear, laced in front with all radials and in back with radials on the drive side for lateral strength where the wheel is dished out, and with a 2x cross crow’s foot pattern with a radial next to it, referred to as a 2x crows foot hybrid, on the non-drive side to transfer torque through the solid axle. Radials with the spoke head on the inside maximize lateral strenght, but the spokes as much in one plane with heads out maximizes aerodynamics which is about 80% of the resistance to motion of the bike. Spoke heads to the inside on cassette side of the rear could get chewed if the chain comes off between the spokes and cassette. For a full blooded touring bike I would use a standard 2x or 3x crow’s foot pattern everywhere and 36 hole rims putting strength above aerodynamic radials. You should use spokes relatively thinner at least in the middle of the spoke for radials to get equal flex with the diagonal, crossing, spokes for a resilient wheel that stays true. I recommend a battery powered light with battery in the seat post pack to aid balancing the front packs; maybe a dual beam halogen light with a small SEALED motorcycle battery, otherwise acid spills in charging will damage the pack and potentially you, connected at the pack with a dual line jack. This battery is a lot stronger and cheaper then the commercial bike light battery. A motorcycle battery charger or 1 amp, trickle charger, car battery charger would be fine at home or work. Now for the rear get a multiple red LED taillight fastened to the seat bag with a screw, washer and spoke twisted around the screw in it’s middle and the two ends in the two bottom back corners to stabilize the pack and light whether it is empty or full. Practice in your head but NOT for real, falling without hitting obstacles or the handlebars tucked to roll on the backs of your hands, with thumbs kept inward, helmeted head to the side, rolling to one shoulder and over – the natural outstretched hand leads to slow healing wrist breaks, see how to fall in Aikido.
Finally add a reflective yellow or neon colored windbreaker or vest to add visibility day or night. Now pick a route that avoids perils and traffic. Safe Cycling is not just obeying the traffic laws.

Last edited by RJOsprey; 07-01-05 at 05:06 AM.
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