rekmeyata

First off the chain size is no different then they were prior to STI, so any older parts designed for the freewheel age of 5, 6, and 7 speed clusters will work, and these parts are readily available new, the shifter system isn't available new but you can find them a lot of times new on E-bay or lightly worn, but chains and freewheels are being made new and IRD makes the best freewheel.

And as another poster said, no problem with the wheel.

I assume you must be riding the track bike on the street now, is so then obviously you've had brakes installed, that part is the toughest since real track bikes did not come with any brakes or any drillings or brake bridge for brakes. I've seen track bikes converted for road use but they could only put a front brake on since drilling a hole through the fork is fairly easy whereas putting a brake bridge on the rear is a different nearly impossible situation. If the brake bridge is there and drilled for a brake and the front fork is drilled for a brake then the bike wasn't a true hardcore track bike. Also on a track bike you need to buy short reach brake calipers.

Track bikes usually used a round instead of a flat fork seen on road bikes. So if you have a true or unconverted track fork for brakes the forks will flex when braking because they weren't designed to be used for brakes, they were designed for heavy torque and to reduce that kind of flexing and forces incurred when entering banked turns. So you might want to get a road fork which will of course have the brake drilling.

And track bikes are noticeably stiffer then road bikes because of the tremendous amount of torque a track racer will place on the bike, a normal road bike would flex too much causing a loss in power and maybe even snap a frame. But if you don't mind that kind of ride your ok, get a shock absorbing saddle, get wider tires like 700c x 25 or 26 and run lower air pressure then you would with a 23, this will take some of the harshness out. Here's a great site to figure you tire pressure, use the second calculator, the first and third one are not as detailed; simply add up your bikes weight plus your weight enter that figure into the calculator using the 40/60 ratio and you can easily tell that with a wider tire you can run less pressure and that less pressure will result in a slightly better ride. Possible problem with the wider tires is that track bikes run extremely close tolerances and they might not fit, but you can always try and see. I have a bike that if I use anything larger then 20 then I have to deflate the tire to get it pass the seat tube, and with 25 or 26 I have to squish flat the tire against the seat tube to get it out.