Harold,

That may pose a bike fit problem that can cause a number of physical pain if it's not correct for you. If not fitted correctly, you will experience hands, feet, knees, neck and back pain

Here's a bit of advise: Before ordering any upgrade, ride the bike in stock form. You need to get the seat, stem height and seat fore/aft position in the right place to make sure it fits you. A bike is absolutely no good if it doesn't fit you properly, and stem length (the stock is 90mm) plays a huge part in that. That Origin 8 stem has a significant drop and the quill length is only 150mm. The stock quill length is 200mm for a good reason.

On the Nano, we are also looking at the stock handlebar, which has width, drop and reach variables that may or may not fit you. Also, you will need to adjust the bar "drops" position, which should be in a range that you can ride in the drops without feeling any pain in your neck or back. It should also be in a position where you're not knee'ing yourself in the chin when pedaling.

Over time, some bike fit things will change as you grow accustomed to your bike and your flexibility for a more "aggressive" position on the bike is desired.

I see a lot of people, especially on fixies, with extremely ill-fitted bikes. I see people with drops that never ride in the drops (why not just get a flat bar?), and I see frames that are too big with the seat slammed all the way to the seat tube - all bad. Again, if the bike does not fit you properly, you will run into physical pain that is very unpleasant and will make you want to get rid of your bike. I feel a lot of these poor decisions are based on looks instead of functionality (like having track drops on the street).

You often wonder how the Tour guys ride 100-150 miles a day, at race pace, for three weeks. Add in some insane time-trials. Aside from the fact that these people are world-class athletes, they have a team of professionals getting the bike fit perfect for them. Most of us don't have that, bit we do have the interwebz that has some great pointers on how to get it real close, if not spot on.

Back to the original post - a short crank arm is good for a fixed gear bike to avoid pedal strike. But on a geared, freewheel bike, you can up your crank arm length for a little more gain ratio (or "leverage").

I have been riding bikes my whole life, started as a freestyle BMX'er and now I ride everything. It has taken me years to learn how to properly wrench a bike and build my tool box which is still incomplete. I still have to research things to make sure I'm doing things right, and I still need to buy weird tools for specific applications. You don't want to ruin your new bike by stripping something or breaking a part because you don't have the right tools. You want the right application of grease AND oil lubricant in the right places.

Believe me, if not done properly, something on a budget will get expensive real fast. Please don't ask me how I know!!!