Originally Posted by
Harorld
One thing that I'd like to do, though, is install brake levers for for when I'm gripping the straight part of the drop bar. I don't feel totally comfortable having the brakes accessible ONLY when I'm gripping the lower/curved part of the handlebar.
Please don't take this as offensive, but in cyclocross racing we call those "p#ssy levers"
Call me the biggest p#ssy, because my CX race bike has a MTB flat bar
All kidding aside, learn to ride the "hoods" - this is the top part of the brake levers (third photo in the illustration below). This is a common hand position for all riding situations - climbing, sprinting, spinning and on occasion, descending (although I pretty much only descend in the drops). This illustration should help you understand the different hand positions for drop bars. This is from
www.sheldonbrown.com which pretty much can answer any question you have in regards to bikes.
Riding in the "drops" or the lower part of the handlebar is usually for descending, hard sprints, headwinds, or any other situation where you'd need to "tuck" down. For casual riding, riding in the drops isn't necessary. However, your bike should be fitted so that riding in the drops is comfortable. If the brake lever is unreachable on the top part, or "hood" position, you need them to be adjusted to where you CAN reach them. Unfortunately, you will need to remove the handlebar tape to do this and re-wrap your handlebar with new tape - my biggest criticism of stock bikes is the position of the levers... all factory bikes should come without the bars wrapped.
Bad part is you're throwing away new bar tape, good part is you can get a new, cool color and bar tape is usually pretty cheap.
You should NOT have to take your hands off the handlebar and change hand positions to brake. Your brake levers should be in the sweet spot where you can reach them in the drops AND on the hoods. If you are riding on the "flat" part of the handlebar, you should be able to simply slide you hands over to the hoods. In fact, when changing hand positions, I always maintain contact with the bar at all times.
Anyway...
Here is my bike in it's complete form. I am taking it out today for my "lunch ride" and plan to climb a couple thousand feet with the new cranks and shifters.
Put a fork in this one - it's DONE (yeah right). It's 26.3lbs right now and it would be awesome to lighten it up. After discovering a set of Dahon Pro wheels would run me about $500... I think I'll call it quits while I'm ahead.
