All membrane waterproofs need a surface beading treatment to prevent the problem of pore clogging. Once the fabric becomes soaked, breathability stops and the fabric takes hours to dry out. You can restore beading with heat, use a low-temp iron or a spin dryer.
I treat my old Nashbar goretex with Nikwax and it seems to work for a few months.
My usual cold/wet jacket is Paramo, it is much better than membrane waterproofs, and I never get that cold, clammy feeling of condensation or leakage, even after 8 years of use. It's not really usable above 16C or for high intensity riding above 10C. The lining is like a thin fleece and quite insulating.
Unlike membrane systems, it works when the outside humidity is 100%.
As Alhedges stated, you need a differential for membranes to work, but it should be in humidity. Temp plays a big part in this but mainly its humidity. This is very low on high mountains and in Antarctica so they work well in these extremes where they are totally unneccesary.