My way involves using a 4th hand tool. And it's the easiest and most convenient for me. I start with chain in small front x small rear cross chain position, and left brifter in 1 trim click over (but not shifted to the big ring yet). Then with the 4th hand tool, I grab the cable and squeeze to push out the FD cage so the outside of the cage clears the chain by a couple mm. You may want 2.5mm clearance because when you release the 4th hand, the cage slips back a small amount. I then snug the clamp bolt down, and test going through the gears to make sure chain clearance isn't a problem when I'm on the 3 smallest cogs in the back.

Then I release the trim, shift to lowest gear (big rear cog) and adjust the L-limit screw to provide clearance without allowing the chain to rub on the inside of the cage. Then I shift the FD to the big ring up front, and smallest cog in the rear and do one more trim shift outward and look for clearance and if necessary, adjust the H-limit screw. That should do it. If you have narrow gapped chainrings, sometimes, this can cause over shifting of the chain off the outside of the big ring, and this can scratch up the crankset. I watch for the alignment of the cage when the drivetrain is in the highest gear ratio. If it's outboard too much but perfect for the inside chainring, I used to stock some small, narrow width chainring bolt washers just 1/2mm thick. Adding this washer to the bolts can widen the gap on the chairings just a little bit to improve the possible chainrub on the crank. YMMV.