Old 10-17-11, 06:04 AM
  #59  
dwellman
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Hermitage, TN
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Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR300 (full SRAM Apex) 1996 Cannondale R800 (Full SRAM Rival), 1997 Cannondale R200 (Shimano Tiagra), 2012 Cannondale CAAD 10-5, 1992 Bridgestone RB-1 (SRAM Force)

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Originally Posted by hybridbkrdr
I mean at what cost or quality level does a bicycle go from being a BSO to a "real" bicycle? [...] But, other bicycles with Acera with disc brakes and suspension forks can sell for $600. So, where do you draw the line?

Or, is it more specific things like whether a bike has a threadless headset and cassette instead of a threaded headset and freewheel?
I completely understand your question. I would say that if you can determine at a glance what the components are (make/model) then I say leans toward "real" bike, but by then you're guaranteed to 1) be a an LBS, 2) have that 1 in 1000 bike at a dept store that costs $300 plus (saw a bike at Target with SRAM X3 all over, Cane Creek headset. . asking $320 for it). For me though, I glance at one thing and one thing only: Shifters. Trigger over GRIP/Revo. Ergo/STI/DoubleTap. Jury still out on MICROShift, but I have a feeling they're not terrible ( I wouldn't turn down a donor / evaluation set, for sure)

A lot of components at the lower price points (say, RD-2300 vs RD 3400 vs RD-4500) are basically the same and you're lesser quality finish, getting more steel instead of aluminum alloy.

Prefer minimum Altus or 2300 level (anything SRAM). Cassettes are better than freewheels. Prefer threadless headsets over threaded (1 1/8 sized just easier to work with now-a-days parts-wise), prefer cartridge bottom brackets over traditional cup and cone. Tektro brakes are fine. KMC chains are fine. Kenda tires are fine.

But all that is meaningless if the frame sucks. Good thing is, that's less or a probability. . at lower prices you'll get something closer to overbuilt than not, just heavy-ish.
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