suncake,
Your thread is a few months old and you've probably solved your issue one way or the other....but I'm going to put in some encouraging words just in case you still have that frame. Your frame looks very much like my 1999/2000 Cannondale H300. The only real difference being mine had welded top tube rear brake guides. Originally, mine was a grip-shift, 8 speed SRAM hybrid with linear pull brakes used for loaded grocery hauling and easy going winter rides when the CAAD 8 needed to rest. Over the years, I've upgraded the components and now I've just finished it off as a fully loaded touring bike with drop bars, Shimano Deore drivetrain, Ultegra barend shifters and Cane Creek cantilever brakes. I deliberated for the longest about moneying up to a Surly LHT or Cannondale tourer, but after comparing the H300 geometry to the 2010 Cannondale Tourer....I saw no reason to pay the new price, our hybrid frames are strong and very similar to the C-Tourer. Your biggest worry...the derailleur hanger on yours doesn't appear to be a replaceable one. If it breaks out on a tour...you'll have to single speed it the rest of the way and the frame will be trash. Otherwise...here is some direct advice:
- Put a lowrider rack on the front fork...using the mid-fork braze-ons....I used a Blackburn model. Carry more of the weight up front than in the back.
- Double up the rack and fender stays to the single eyelets....I've been riding like this for a year now and no problems other than dampening a few early squeaks.
- Mount a rear rack using two 11" rack stays from the mono seat stay. If you don't have the threaded eyelets on the monostay, then use a mono-stay adapter that you can view over on Jandd's site. Speaking of Jandd, use the Expedition rear rack if your budget allows...you can place the panniers back further and prevent heel kick.
- Lot's of choices in canti-brake cable stops and hangers. I mounted the rear one from my seat tube clamp. You may have to do a bit of custom engineering, but it'll work. Origin 8 makes some seat tube clamps with built in stops, but they are limited in size selection.
- Use a threaded to threadless adapter quill and then select a threadless stem with the angle and length that positions your bars to the right height and reach. This way you move toward a modern, serviceable setup without converting to a threadless fork.
- The front cable hanger could be salvaged from an older steel bike and then replace one of the spacers on your headset. But I bet your steerer tube is 1 1/8" outer diameter and not the 1" outer diameter you mentioned. I used a threadless front cable hanger and mounted it on my adapter quill using rubber bushings for a snug fit. The rubber bushings were made from old tire tubes.
- For about $80, you can buy a Civia Kingfield threadless fork with mid-fork braze-ons and dual eyelets. Add about $80 more for a new headset, spacers and star nut, etc. Then you'll have a thoroughly modern front fork. Compare that to a $14 threaded to threadless adapter quill, and you'll have money left for fenders and racks.
- I was able to buy your brake cable guides for another Cannondale bike I own from a Cannondale dealer. I had to find a dealer that would take the time to order them from Cannondale.

I'm very happy with my Cannondale hybrid/tourer and the lower top tube makes it much easier to mount...especially when loaded!