lucky, sounds like you're paralyzed with indecision while using a "custom builder "program" that requires you to decide the parts, moreover you've shifted from credit card touring to fully loaded or whatever while leaving out the second most important factor, your weight. Your previous post two months ago started with 4x consideration and credit card touring.
Staefphj1 pretty much nailed it. Tell the builder what you're doing then pay for the build. If you're fixated on a particular builder whose online order form requires you to chose just do it. All the rims and spokes you picked will work, if you want to save $10 or so use straight gauge, if you want to save $40 use the 319s, if you want X grams lighter use the Dyads and butted spokes. Butted spokes will theoretically provide a longer life wheel but it's probably academic in a crash or boxed/transportation accident. DT or Wheelsmith doesn't matter, it might matter if you've built a wheel or two and developed an attachment to one or the other.
The parts really don't matter, you could have the wheels built up with even cheaper rims and hubs and they'd last a long time if built well.
Once you made the option of fully loaded touring a possibility you've pretty much thrown out the window the consideration of light weight, which is ok since it really doesn't matter as much as the motor.
My personal opinion is that the Velocity seams aren't as smooth as I'd like and as strong as the rim is(very) the bead/flange holding the tire could be thicker to resist bending when hitting potholes with marginally inflated tires.
My suggestion, buy only the rear wheel from this custom builder then buy a Handspun front wheel. That way you can spread the anxiety around. You could get a Handspun front wheel meeting your needs between $100 and $160