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Old 12-12-11 | 06:46 PM
  #45  
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Onegun
Oldie. Boy, howdy!
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,002
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From: Shady Hills, Fl.

Bikes: 2005 Trek T2000 tandem, Giant TCR, Eddie Merckx Majestic Ti, Fuji Team, Giant Revel 29er, Windsor Clockwork (Orange) fixie, and a BikTrix Juggernaut Ultra 1000 fat tire eBike

Originally Posted by mtnbke
It is an absolutely absurd notion that someone couldn't properly set up Cantilever without squeal. Even with hard pads with added "rust" for better wet weather performance, you absolutely should be able to get these set up without squeal. First of all it takes the right tools (third hand brake tool and fourth hand brake tool) but most any competent wrench should be able to do this for you no problem. The problem is that most people who work on their own bikes, and many wrenches in the LBS aren't all that competent.
Really? Well, doggone! Let's see here. I started riding in `71 and working in bike shops in `72, and in the ensuing years I even owned a couple of them. I was the team mechanic for Team Arco/North Hollywood Wheelmen at the 1978 Red Zinger Classic stage race, (which, as I'm sure you know since it's in your neck of the woods, was the predecessor to the Coors Classic and now the US Pro Cycling Classic). Over the 40 years of my cycling career I've been a race wrench, a USCF Official, a coach, team owner/sponsor, etc, etc, etc.

So pray tell me, since I've already set up at least 10,000 sets of brakes or so, how much longer do you think it will take me to learn how to adjust brakes?

BTW, just so you'll know, third hand and fourth hand tools have nothing to do with stopping brake squeal. Squeal is a function how the brake pad grips/slips on the rim, and is generally resolved by cleaning rims, breaking the glaze on pads, and altering either the vertical face alignment, toe-in, or some combination of all the above. Once all that is done, a 3rd or 4th hand tool simply holds the brakes in position while you tighten the nut on the cable fixing bolt.

From my point of view, it would behoove you to limit your remarks to those things with which you have actual experience and slow down on the use of such sweeping generalizations.

Secondly, recommendations from someone who is 6'6" and 375 pounds, (from what I gather from your previous posts), will be of little value for smaller, lighter teams. Your prejudice against every frame material except aluminum is just nonsense. It may be the only choice for you, but even you must realize that your weight/size is almost completely unique among cyclists. Smaller and lighter teams, (which almost everyone else is!), might find steel, titanium or cf to have a delightful ride.

Thirdly, three times I've pointed out where you didn't bother to read the original post before you launched into your tirade against this or that. Each time I pointed it out, your answer was something akin to "Yep".

Well, "Nope!" It is rude to not bother to read what the poster says before spouting off.

And lastly, speaking of rude, your opening line to a new poster, (and presumably someone you didn't know), was "I think you're going to be destined to either be disappointed in the Seven, or not willing to acknowledge how it really rides if you still go with it."

Translation: "You'll either hate it, or not be man enough to admit you hate it, and therefore lie about it."

What a wonderful way to greet a newcomer. Folks weren't like that last time I was in Colorado. What happened?
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2005 Trek T2000 tandem, Giant TCR, Eddie Merckx Majestic Ti, Fuji Team, Giant Revel 29er, Windsor Clockwork (Orange) fixie, and a BikTrix Juggernaut Ultra 1000 fat tire eBike
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