Originally Posted by
bendembroski
Bar end shifters & v-brake levers will work with no problems. It's what I did when I used bullhorns on my Swift. Waaaay simpler than disc conversion.
That's what I'm doing on my Swift: bar-end shifters and V-brake oriented road levers on drop bars. Works great. For levers I'm using the Dia-Compe 287-V; Cane Creek and Tektro also make V-specific (long-pull) road levers.
I wouldn't mind going disc, but it isn't a simple conversion. Too bad, since Avid road discs work fantastically well with conventional (short-pull) road levers.
Fortunately I'm not finding a disc brake necessary so far, even for wet Oregon commuting. This especially surprises me because the dry braking, while adequate, is not awesome. But at least for the riding I've done so far, the performance hasn't seemed to degrade very much in the wet, unlike on my past 700c bikes. So it's been still adequate even in steady rain. That's with the stock front cable and crummy Promax brake, which upgrading would improve it a lot. The rear brake was NOT adequate in stock form (even when dry), and I have upgraded it with an Avid Single Digit 7 brake and Jagwire Racer cables, very carefully prepped. Though still just adequate, that's a big upgrade from inadequate.
Originally Posted by
mtalinm
I'd be happy with a disc brake in front. Is there more to it than a new fork and a new front wheel? I hardly use the back brake anyway
Assuming the cable pull of your levers is matched to your brake (long-pull V-brake lever with most disc calipers, short-pull road or canti levers with Avid Road Discs), then ... well, it
should be as simple as that, but ...
The problem is that getting a disc fork for a Swift is not simple. It's an unusual fork with a steerer that starts at 1 1/8" and then tapers to 1" above the top of the headset so that the 1" ID Swift riser can clamp onto it. Your fork options, near as I can tell, are:
- Have HPM/CAT in Eugene build you one (See link above - they are NOT merely a "bike shop" but an outlet for the Swift's co-designer). Price unknown, theoretically available but I haven't heard of anyone ordering one. This is probably the only option that wouldn't require you to also buy a new headset.
- Get a disc fork with a 1" steerer and use a reduction headset. IIRC Hostelshoppe sells one but the rake may throw the handling off a bit.
- Get a disc fork with a 1 1/8" steerer and buy a new 1 1/8" ID stem riser. I've searched and haven't found a 1 1/8" disc fork with the proper rake and A-C length. Most of the ones I did find were mod trials forks that were way too long.
- Have someone weld disc tabs onto a Swift fork. This has been animatedly discussed previously in this thread. There are varying opinions, but mine is that I wouldn't risk my dental work (or worse) to a fork modded in this way. A fork failure is one of the most dangerous mechanical problems you can have on a bike.
- Have a custom fork made. I've considered having WaltWorks make me one. Expensive (currently $275, or $325 for non-black) but Walt should be able to build you anything. I'd probably just have me build one with a 1 1/8" steerer and buy a matching riser.